Hunan (Virreyes)

Refined Chinese cuisine in an elegant dining room that's been a Reforma fixture for years. The menu leans toward Hunan specialties with a few Cantonese classics — the Peking duck is the showstopper, carved tableside and served as tacos with scallion, cucumber, and plum sauce. Also worth ordering: Hunan shrimp, the Return of the Phoenix chicken, and the house dumplings.

The setting is formal — dark wood, padded walls, white tablecloths — and service is professional and attentive. Prices run high, reflecting the upscale atmosphere and tableside presentations. The meringue dessert is a house bestseller. Reservations recommended, especially for weekends.