Mariscos Los Paisas

Seafood counter inside Mercado Jamaica blending Mazatlán and Veracruz influences — think arroz a la tumbada (Veracruz-style rice with shellfish and fish), mojarra al mojo de ajo, and tacos de pulpo al pastor. The kitchen runs fast during peak hours, turning out generous portions at bar seating only; no tables.

Order the octopus dishes or the swordfish burger with shrimp if you're not allergic. Go during the week if you want more breathing room — weekends pack the counter and the single chef works triple-time.